Cosmetic Ingredients

New Acids to Get Excited About

It is no secret we love a good acid at Ishtar HQ. A good chemical exfoliant remains a vital part of any skincare routine. You might know about Glycolic/Mandelic/Lactic acid, but there are new kids on the block to get excited about.

Lipohydroxy Acid

Lipohydroxy acid is an ester of an old favourite Salicylic acid. It helps to dissolve the hardened deposits in the pores. When you use a product with Lipohydroxy acid, the immediate effect is it clears congestion. But over time, it evens out skin tone, helps fade hyperpigmentation and reduces the appearance of fine lines.

Lipohydroxy acid is different from Salicylic acid because it penetrates less deeply which makes it less irritating. It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Ishtar Product with Lipohydroxy Acid

Sebupore Exfoliant Facial oil with Lipohydroxy acid

Sebupore Exfoliant Facial oil with Lipohydroxy acid clears congestion and encourages gentle exfoliation. The formula also contains Green Cold Pressed Coffee oil which is full of antioxidants and skin-friendly bioactives. Saw Palmetto extract has sebum-regulating properties. Sebupore Exfoliant Facial oil with Lipohydroxy acid is suitable for oily and congested skin.

Azeloyl Glycine

Azeloyl glycine is a derivative of Azelaic acid. Likewise, Azeloyl glycine exfoliates, hydrates, and possesses anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It also regulates sebum production and reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Azeloyl glycine inhibits the melanin synthesis and brightens the complexion. The difference between Azeloyl glycine and Azelaic acid is that the former is water soluble which makes it easier to use in skincare formulas.

Ishtar products with Azeloyl glycine

Azeloyl 10

Azeloyl 10 is formulated with 10% Azeloyl Glycine. It brightens skin tone and promotes dermal equilibrium.⁣

Azeloyl 10 is a light textured moisturiser formulated with Azeloyl glycine, a very gentle exfoliant derived from Azelaic acid. It brightens, firms and hydrates without causing irritation and has excellent sebum-regulating qualities.

Shikimic acid

Shikimic acid is an Alpha-Hydroxy acid that is derived from Star Anise (the name originates from the Japanese word shikimi). It has antibacterial and antifungal properties. In pharmaceutical industry it is used as an anti-inflammatory and to stimulate the production of vitamin K. When used in skincare products, it reduces acne, smoothes and brightens the skin and minimises the appearance of fine lines. It also helps fade discoloration and photodamage.

A study conducted in 2016 showed Shikimic acid is an effective compound for skin brightening with low toxicity and good radical scavenging activity.

Phytic acid

Phytic acid is also known as phytate. It is an Alpha-Hydroxy acid derived from rice, bran, cereal and fruit seeds. It works by blocking iron and copper in the formation of melatonin. Phytic acid also chelates iron, copper, and calcium. By doing this, it reduces oxidative stress.

As Phytic acid is a slowly releasing ingredient, it gently exfoliates, speeds up the cell rejuvenation time all the while being less irritating to the skin. It can be used to reduce acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. It also has all the skin benefits of Alpha Hydroxy acids which means it moisturises, minimises fine lines and wrinkles, brightens the skin and evens out skin tone.

Polyhydroxy acid

Polyhydroxy acid includes Gluconic acid (also known as Gluconolactone), Galactose, and Lactobionic acid. Like Alpha-Hydroxy acids, Polyhydroxy acids work on the surface of the skin to gently exfoliate and improve skin tone. PHAs have a bigger molecule than AHAs. Because of this, they are slower to penetrate the skin and less likely to cause sensitivity and dryness.

PHAs are also a natural humectant, which means they bind the moisture to the skin. They brighten the skin, hydrate and have anti-inflammatory properties.

Ishtar products with PHA

Prep & Glow Exfoliating Toner

Our Prep & Glow Exfoliating Toner uses 7% Gluconic acid and has a pH of 3.5. It increases cell turnover, improves the smoothness of the skin, increases hydration and binds excess metals in the skin thus reducing oxidative stress.
Our formula also contains Aspen Bark extract to purify the pores and Green Tea extract for its antioxidant properties. Prep & Glow Exfoliating Toner is suitable for dull, dry, and problem skin.

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Roberta Striga

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